Playa Chiquita Lodge
Before you read any reviews, you need to know that the Caribbean coast of CR is not the touristy coast and there are many reasons for that. If you love Acapulco, Las Vegas, and Cancun then you will hate Playa Chiquita Lodge. However, if you love getting off the beaten path, then this is for you. Where else can you stay right smack in the rain forest--I mean right smack in it---surrounded by monkeys and parrots, and have your own completely private beach where you can walk, unmolested, for miles on clean sand . . . bathe in safe calm turquoise waters, eat fresh fish and the most delicious fruit every day--in really good restaurants--hang out with totally cool people from all over the world, and have 24/7 WiFi access? Well, I've traveled a lot, and the answer is--not too many places. Oh yeah, I forgot to add---for a very reasonable price! The little village of Puerto Viejo is not the most beautiful village in the world, but I like it---mainly because it is sort of great, right there on the ocean---it has some suprisingly good restaurants. The streets are, well, some are unpaved, and I like that too. The water in your shower may not always be hot, but I have to laugh when I read people's complaints about these things and about lack of personalized attention. I am the girly girl from New York City, and I've stayed in my share of luxury places---but in all my months living in the tropics, over the years, in various countries--never once did I desire a hot shower! In fact, the only thing in the tropics that feels as good as a cool shower is a cool dip in a gorgeous ocean, and Playa Chiquita has one-- right down the secluded path through the lush vegetation, past the big fuchsia flowers. Another thing that feels real good in the tropics is a fresh mango smoothie and they are easy to come by in this neck of the jungle.
The owners, Wanda and Wolle, are just great and their kids are adorable. They are all so funny, so cool, and so much fun. Hey, this is their home and perhaps they have days when they are precoccuppied---but they were extremely charming and gracious to me--when I saw them. Truth is, they were actually away for most of my stay. They left the place in good hands and I was just fine! I rented a room from them---I was not expecting a day care center. ;-) Playa Chiquita is certainly not a luxury hotel and that's why you don't pay through the nose. Many of us actually prefer traveling as simply as possible and being as close to the country, the people, the culture, as possible, and we don't want to be pampered (unless we're at a spa, in which case, we love it ;-). My room was clean and comfortable and they gave me a mosquito net even though there were screens. This kind of place is ideal for people who don't need adult supervision. The people in charge will gladly answer your questions and give you whatever you need and sometimes much more, if you're lucky. Wanda and Wolle have lived there for a long time and are a wealth of information. The fact that between them, they speak at least four languages, maybe more, is convenient also. I noticed on their website that they left out "German," but Wolle is from Germany, so you can add German to the list. They get a nice international mix of guests. When I was there, I met a wonderful newlywed couple from Paris--she was a "Tikan" -- Costa Rican--and he was French. They were loving Playa Chiquita as much as I was.
Playa Chiquita is not a B&B. Yes, Wanda and Wolle live there--at least, most of the time---but it is a motel, with a number of connected rooms, called cabinas. They feel cabin-like because they have their own little porches . . . it's very basic, not tacky, and that's what I love about it. The cabinas are made of dark wood, inside and out. The whole place is rustic and unpretentious, and so, your attention is always drawn to what is around you---nature at it's best. The buildings blend right into the jungle setting---beautiful tall trees and stupendous gigantic flowers on every side. I could not stop painting those brilliant flowers, against the deepest darkest brown. The whole place is lush and shady, and this is exactly what you want in an equatorial climate. Playa Chiquita is a charming, magical place, hidden away, down a long road out of the village. This little road meanders south, hugging the Caribbean on the very edge of the east coast of Costa Rica. Apparently this road leads to ever more jungle in Panama, which is not far away. It's all very casual. I nevr sawe a policeman n one month--there didnt seem tobe many rules or laws. one day I saw a solitary horse, just walking down that road by himself, and no one seemed to mind. Maybe he was goiing sout to buy a Panama hat.
All or most of the rooms look out over the garden and down on the boardwalk that connects them to the main building on one side and goes down to the beach, the other way. The fact that the owners live there and are around was reassuring. This is quite a secluded spot, one or two miles outside the village. There are restaurants, a store, a few houses and at least one other hotel very close by. (I enjoyed delicious dinners and nice wines at the neighboring hotel's upscale restaurant, also served outside, surrounded by vegetation.) But still the jungle is thick and everywhere---and the jungle noises are loud at night--it's teeming with animals. therefore, I liked having nice people close by! They go to bed early, so everyone gets a good night's sleep--except whe there's a downpour--that'll wake you ona tin roof! But those babies are kind of exciting. I mean, who wnats a jungle adventure without a deafening downpour or two? The cabins are raised up, which is rather nice. ;-)
I'm not a surfer, but Puerto Viejo is a famous world-class surfing spot with huge waves breaking on a reef, way out from shore---the surf break is right by the village. I wish I'd had my binoculars to watch the surfers, then again, the birds down there aren't too shabby either. ;-)
The private beach at Playa Chiquita Lodge is completely unspoiled--exactly as it must have been thousands of years ago--or maybe millions . . . except for yourself and the volley ball net. ;-) You cannot drive there, you can only walk,--a fairly short path, from your room, through the trees. This means it is never crowded, and it is often empty. Do bring flip flops--the sand gets hot. Do bring mosquito repellent, strong sun screeen, a hat, and maybe a thermos for your cold water, and a citronella candle or two for your porch afterwards. Do bring a camera or sketch book. Don't bring leather goods---it's very damp and leather will mold. Paper can get damp. Bring books for Wanda's library. The rainy season (North American summer) is fine there, and the prices are even better. It rains every day, but the rain does not last long and then the sun reappears. The downpours cool everything off and make it even greener and more lush, if that were possible. I was a helluva lot more comfortable in the Costa Rican jungle in July, than I have been in Washington DC, Virginia, or NYC in July. You're right on the ocean, and there's tons of shade. It's actually a great summer vacation;-).
I went to Puerto Viejo to stay at Playa Chiquita Lodge for one month. When I left my home, I was feeling tired, unhealthy, uninspired, and unhappy. One month later, when I returned from Costa Rica, I was completely rejuvenated, energized, and healed. My life completely turned around. I long to go back. What more can I say?
